[–] 0 points 9 hours ago* (5 children)

No in want reliability without massive amounts of maintenance and repairs above all. A 20+ year (pretty much how far back you need to go to avoid telemetry) old car is not going to give that, regardless of what anyone says. They will require lots of time at the mechanic way too often, or lots of hours from yourself.

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  • [–] 91 points 11 hours ago* (2 children)

    Here saved you a click and and badly written "article"

    In an online discussion post, Alcorn State University history professor Dr. Jason Gibson posed a question that represented part of his students' midterm. It was about the Industrial Revolution, but knowing how many students now rely solely on artificial intelligence for their answers, he secretly embedded instructions telling the AI to include information about Madagascar in a way that makes no sense.

    Being written in white text meant the instructions were invisible.

    (...)

    Had any of these cheaters even bothered to check what the AI had generated, they'd likely have noticed the strange references to the island country constantly appearing in an essay about the Industrial Revolution.

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  • [–] [S] 4 points 2 days ago

    Here's another piece from the same artist (terrain4print). I tried using metallic silver as the base for most of the panels on this one, and the adding the rust and grime in top of that. I finished it with a dark tone wash on the silver panels because it was still a bit too shiny. Turned out pretty good i would say.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 2 days ago (1 child)

    Yeah I probably could try printing it in ASA and smoothing it, just to see if the result is better. But honestly for terrain I would say the layer lines are not really an issue from a visual aspect, mostly just that I need to approach applying the paint slightly differently.

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  • [–] [S] 4 points 2 days ago (1 child)

    The paint sticks just fine, I primed it with Vallejo matte black primer that I use for most things. IDK, the paint just flows on to the model in really weird ways compared to the smooth HIPS minis (in hindsight for obvious reasons), I definitely need thicker paint for 3D printed things I learned.

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    First time trying to paint a thoroughly weathered/rusty piece, and also first time trying to paint 3D printed terrain.

    Printed with a 0.2mm layer height, it was surprisingly annoying to paint compared to regular cast HIPS pieces. Washes are completely useless, or at least behave very differently, due to capillary effect of the layer lines.

    I think I went a little too heavy with the rust orange color so it lost some definition. It looks a little more defined IRL than the photo shows.

    [–] [S] 1 point 2 days ago*

    Gadgetbridge already supports my current HRM, but gadgetbridge can't record to workouts or initiate workouts. it just collects data for the day, so my workout is just a short 1-1.5h blip of data there in a fixed 24h graph. The HRM only has an on/off button and can't start a workout itself so the HR data recorded by gadgetbridge is not linked to anything and just exists in a vacuum making it fairly pointless for me.

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    I have a BT connected HR monitor (decathlon HRM band) that I want to use for tracking my HR during treadmill running and crossfit. However, since I want it all offline without connecting to an account in the cloud somewhere, this seems to be near impossible. I can easily get HR readings from the device via BT, but I haven't found an app that allows me to do the above mentioned tracking where the HR data is logged with exercise duration.

    I use the HRM band with opentracks for outside running, and it works great within opentracks (aside from horrible data visualization). But opentracks doesn't export any HR metrics unfortunately. And opentracks is really terrible for recording workouts that don't use GPS, e.g. it won't allow me to easily edit speed and distance for treadmill runs and has tons of useless fields for crossfit workouts.

    Anyone know of an app that allows for offline generic HR logging with a BT HRM? Bonus if it can record for different activities, but I will settle for generic workout category.

    submitted 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) by to c/selfhosted@lemmy.world
     

    I have been seeing periodic drops in internet access from LAN connected devices lately (last 2 months), and I haven't been able to figure about exactly what is going on. There doesn't seem to be a pattern, and it resolves itself after a few hours.

    • I can access the internet from my router
    • All devices on LAN can reach each other, both wired and WiFi
    • All devices on LAN can reach router, both wired and WiFi
    • I haven't changed anything in router settings
    • I haven't added new devices to my local network
    • I can't find any IP conflicts
    • It's a simple flat network with two APs, a single switch, no VLAN separation
    submitted 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) by to c/piracy@lemmy.dbzer0.com
     

    I have recently been having a lot of issues maintaining a connection with my proton vpn in gluetun. it keeps dropping and reconnecting due to failing periodic small health check. My internet connection is solid without connection issues, running a symmetrical 1gbit and the router (gl.inet brume 2) doesn't register any dropouts in connection.

    i have tried following the suggested troubleshooting in the docs, updating the vpn server list etc., but none of the suggestions seem to fix this issue. it has been going on for several months now. if i use mullvad it works perfectly without connection issues, but this is destroying my seed ratio due to no port forwarding.

    docker compose

    log from container

    [EDIT] it seems to be caused by radar/sonarr trying to reach my trackers. When I removed them from my docker-compose and left just the qbit and gluetun containers, it stopped failing and just kept running without dropping the connection. Configuring flaresolverr to be part of the docker-compose seems to have fixed the issues I was having.

     

    I have rimworld that I bought on GOG, I wanted to use it on my steamdeck so I added the start.sh as a non-steam game. It went fine and I can open it...but the controller inputs don't work at all, only touchscreen input works. Do I need to add launch arguments or something to get it working properly? It works just fine when launched from heroic launcher outside of steam, I kind of just wanted it easily accessible with the rest of my library.

     

    This particular filament (Sunlu matte HS PETG) is one of the absolute worst I've ever used WRT being hygroscopic. It arrived so wet that I had literal steam from the extruder the first time I wanted to use it. It took almost 48h in my drier to dry it completely so I could use it. Its been sitting in an airtight box with dessicant for 5 weeks and I needed to dry it for >16h for it to be usable again. The wet part in this print was in the bowden tube between dryer and printer, I restarted the print after took this image.

    Sure it prints well at 300mm/s, but it is by no means matte at the temperatures that allow printing it at high speeds, it is actually very glossy. A huge bummer.

    smooth first layer...so nice smooth first layer...so nice

     

    I just got my Heltec V4 today, but after a few hours of trying I simply cannot flash meshtactic on it. I've only tried v2.7.x versions.

    I consistently get "NetworkError: Failed to execute 'open' on 'SerialPort': Failed to open serial port"

    I've tried all combinations mentioned in this thread but nothing seems to work.

    I am on Linux mint, I've tried both chromium and chrome, I've tried different usb-cables (both A-C and C-C, all with verified data connections)

    I can see the device with lsusb as "Espressif USB JTAG/serial debug unit"

    Anyone know where I need to look for a solution? This has been a seriously shitty start to my meshtastic adventure.

    FreeCad in docker (lemmy.dbzer0.com)
     

    I recently decided to force myself to actually learn FreeCad. I've tried on and off for the past two years but just couldn't get along with the UI and workflow...well, now I'm giving it an honest shot, and after a few weeks of misery, it is getting better.

    But my laptop is not particularly powerful, and I frequently have performance issues when working with imported step-files. Lo and behold, you can run FreeCad in docker, so I can use my server which is significantly more powerful and just access via browser.

    The catch is, it seems to run even worse than on my laptop. I can also see that it actually doesn't use much of the available power of the server. Does anyone have experience with setting up a docker compose for FreeCad? I've looked at the docs and my GPU should be passed through and I've also allocated 32GB ram to the container. But it doesn't actually use it it seems.

     

    I had a lot of ASA to spare from a voron 2.4 project. I decided to use some of it printing the prusa rocket engine just for the fun of it, maxing out my printers volume with a height of 310mm. I printed it without any supports, and it does show some obvious issues in areas with large overhangs, but generally the printing quality is pretty good. It took 16h13m to print the entire thing and used a little under 400g of filament, 0.2mm layer height, 10% lightning infill, 2 walls.

     

    I bought a new Qidi X-Max 3 on their BF sale for 500EUR, which seemed like a great deal and I've been wanting an enclosed klipper core-xy printer for some time for more demanding prints in engineering filaments, so I pulled the trigger.

    I've now had the printer for two days, and it's somewhat of a disappointment unfortunately.

    The printing speed and quality of the prints are good, nothing to complain about here.

    My issue is with their bed meshing and first layer. The bed is crooked as hell with a massive 0.45mm deviance from lowest to highest point, but it should not be a big issue with bed meshing because it should compensate. But it just seems like it's not compensating at all, the parts of prints that are closest to flat plane have great first layer, all other places are either way too squished or not squished at all. This means I can only get a proper first layer on about 1/3 of the bed, either front, middle or back part.

    This is in stark contrast to my semi-custom anycubic bedslinger with klipper, which lays down near perfect first layer every time, without adjust Z-offset across the entire plate. And I was honestly expecting the same from the Qidi.

    I have run their calibration routine multiple times. I'm fairly well versed in the 3D hobby. Is there some setting in the Qidi that I'm missing? It's running their own dirty klipper version, who knows what they've changed/missed from newest mainline. I am already considering returning as I was expecting more of a turn-key printer that my experience so far.

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