Cherry and walnut. Five coats of food grade tung oil. Worked great. Made the beans flat

I needed a racket for some tennis like sport. Since the sport is kind of local to my area, there is only few offers for these rackets, and some have quite high waiting times. Since they are made from plywood anyway, I decided to make it myself.

The melamin plywood I picked was a pain to work with, and I fiddled quite a bit with tape on the wood, drill speeds and everything, to avoid tearing the surface. I still did on the back, propably pushing too hard, so I scraped off the first layer. The clean black melamin would have looked better I think, but at some point I got so annoyed that I'm happy I was able to make it at least look decent.

Not the author but thought this was pretty cool!

https://youtu.be/36P5VzIUdK8

About $700 and some salvage for the materials. Too many hours.

It is time i finally get a bed frame, my wife and i both like this one. It looks like something i can build myself.

I would love to try building this with as few nails/screws as possible. It is for a King Sized bed.

Is this still okay for a walking stick? I think it's Black Locust.

Hello! I recently got into woodworking and built this sectional set over the past few months!

I bought the plans from Shara Woodshop Diaries. They were very well done and easy to follow.

The sectional and chaise obviously took the longest. It had a couple of tricky glue jobs but I think it turned out alright.

The coffee table and side table I started and finished over the last two days. I took my time and think I did better than on the sectional.

This is all pressure treated wood. I will stain it sometime but haven’t picked a stain yet. Figured it needs time to dry out anyways.

Anyways, this is my first post here - figured I’d share!

We followed this guide https://www.handymanwire.com/articles/gardenbenchplans.html. This is my first real project since moving out on my own, and my first time ever doing a (carpentry) joint. I'm overjoyed with the results! I'm very ignorant with regards to lacquer, varnish, stain, sealant etc., any guidance in that area would be very helpful.

Last year I made the little table for my older kids' bedroom for arts and crafts. I just made two little benches/stools for the table. Everything is cherry with basic mortise and tenon joinery. I shaped the legs with a hardboard template and a flush trim bit on the router table.

Made as a commission based on Death from Soul Eater, client's favourite anime

All solid oak with stained ash in the round pockets (First use for some of the free bits from my last post)

Based on the wild inconsistencies in the tenons, this thing certainly seems handmade.

I've got it mostly disassembled and sanded up to 220, debating between tung oil and shellac.

I'm also thinking of reinforcing the bow-back/seat joints by jamming some toothpicks into any gaps and then saturating with glue as much as possible. They aren't in terrible shape, just loose and I want to fix the laxity.

Overall I think things are going well so far

Building a screen door for customer's balcony.

Mostly oak and cherry, and a little bit of walnut and maple

Picked these up on marketplace for $20 yesterday, planning on regluing as many joints as possible, sanding, and hitting them with some shellac.

So far, I've gotten the legs off one, but i THINK the round portion of the back is attached to the seat with wedged tenons, but it's hard to tell because of how old and beaten up the wood is.

If they are, any tips on disassembling wedged tenons?

I'm thinking if they're still adequately glued, too just leave them alone, because i can't think how I'd get a glued wedge out

Dining room chair for scale

I'd give myself a solid 7/10. Would not do again haha

Hi everyone,

I need to bend some oak for a project. I've done it before but it was a long time ago...

Two questions :

1. my plan is to bend a 40x70 mm (1,5" x 2,75") section of oak to a 500mm (20") internal radius, is that realistic?

2. do I have to steam the whole piece or can I build a smaller steam box to only accept the end that needs to be bent?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Edit: added measurements in inches for universal convenience

A hutch table made by my father in the 1960s with boiled linseed oil finish was damaged in a January 2025 California urban fire. It, and all other house contents, still emit a heavy toxic smell. Room surface tests have shown that lead and other metals are present.

I've successfully remediated a few other furniture pieces but they had been sealed with polyurethane (or similar). The visible surfaces of this hutch (all solid pine or oak) were finished in multiple layers of boiled linseed oil. The other surfaces (interior solid pine and drawer bottom plywood) are unfinished.

Am seeking remediation advice. How best to remove as much of linseed finish as possible - so that a fresh linseed finish can be applied? The hope being to remove most of the toxins and encapsulate the remaining.

For the rest: sealing the unfinished interior surfaces seems advisable but linseed in drawers is not recommended, right? So polyurethane there is the way to go?

Any thoughts would be appreciated. My father was better at this than I am!

A first set of forms for this year! It’s a cnc cut solera + outer mould + side bending form, made of plywood, MDF board, aluminum pipe, threaded rods and PLA.

Apparently CNC machines don’t like long, continuous splines, like the parts of the outer mould. At one point the controller couldn’t handle the huge amount of commands and slowed down, resulting in vibrations piling up and pulling the milling bit out of the spindle. The bit made a hole in the surface of my 1000€ vacuum table before exploding.

No lasting functional damage, except for the milling bit, but it hurt like hell - emotionally.

I plan to make a set of forms for a Torres guitar next - with optimized settings, so this mishap doesn’t happen again.

Hi, can you please help me identify this router bit? It came in a set of bits and there's no further explanation. I am seeing this for the first time and have absolutely no idea how and what for could I use it. (Though I am an ultimate routing rookie).

The tip looks like a V shape and there is one straight side blade, though it looks like they're not connected.

CNC cut from 12mm plywood. Maybe I should send a job application to IKEA?.

Test project on my new CNC machine