I was going to buy a BBQ until I saw one amongst some bins at the side of a road. Took it home and have now cleaned it up.

The only issue is these grill brackets that hold the grill in place and completely degraded. One is missing, the other two are so rusted they bend easily.

Any idea what these are called and where I might get replacements? The BBQ is a knock off Weber, no idea of the brand, and I couldn't see equivalent parts on the Weber website.

Thanks in advance.

It's still drying fine as far as I can tell, the noises I attach here a recording of only happen around idk, 5% of the total drying time. They start, then stop again after a a few seconds or a minute, throughout the whole drying process.

Mainly I was just wondering if anyone could imagine what it might be, what I could take a look at, or if it's nothing to worry about. I understand it's probably a long shot :D

Thanks for whoever takes a look at this, here is the recording, first half is the noise, second half is normal running: https://gofile.io/d/RyWmFq

My two year old stepped on my glasses while at a picnic. I wear these daily and it's hard to find a suitable replacement.

Frames are plastic . Lenses are plastic and not prescribed. These were about $20 (us) and the brand is from a fishing line of equipment called Ugly Stick.

I have tried to find this exact kind again online and have not been able to find them. I have another pair that is adjacent to these but they look differently because of the colors and the lenses are a different tint.

I would love some advice on how to fix the plastic frame so that it will be sturdy again.

I'm not sure what other information I can provide about the glasses or what questions I am failing to head off, so please ask away.

Thanks in advance.

Pads started peeling and shedding plastic everywhere. We didn't want to get replacements so I peeled off all the plastic, kept the cushions and used an old jean with some wool to make it better than it was before.

I have 25 year old Grados that still have their original pads. I don't know why AKG couldn't even stand 4 years of occasional use 🤷

I was trying to remove the backplate and my hand slipped and I accidentally scratched it with the screwdriver. I think there used to be a transistor here. Is this fixable? I have basic soldering skills.

Edit: This is the back of the CPU socket so I'm kind of freaking out.

Hi!

Im working on a project to disassemble this crappy cheap bt speaker and mount it i side an old phone. But ive encountered a problem. Many parts are glued stuck. The battery for example. I dont want to use violence to remove it because it could be damage leading to a nuclear explosion. Any advise in how to proceed?

Bought most of the stuff from garage sale. Battery was a gift

I used a light switch as an on off switch for the amplifier.

I don't quite microphone interface yet, but I should have something in my junk drawer.

It's pretty loud so I haven't don't a full test I'll have to go outside and set it up

I'll need to get more clips and Velcro tape

Cross-gepostet von: https://feddit.org/post/25478864

Good day,

I am attempting to diagnose and repair a Lamona Dryer, model FLM8800.

The issue was with the water pump that failing has burned some component on the PCB module.

The control board is labeled as CTI-600 and TBM-CEM1. It also features an E.G.O TDP FMBC module (Article Number: 32035234, Lamona SKU: A22124384, priced at £80).

In the attached images, where seems to be clear where the issue is, there are two specific components I am struggling to identify:

A transistor

A second component adjacent to the transistor, which appears to be a capacitor or possibly a diode.

Could anyone provide insight into what these components might be? If you have experience with this board or know where a schematic or service manual for this board might be available, your guidance would be invaluable. I suspect the transistor could be a standard switching type, such as a MOSFET or BJT, but I am unsure of its exact specifications. The second component resembles a capacitor, but I would appreciate confirmation or correction.

I have already contacted Lamona support, but I am exploring all avenues to make the repair more economic and ovoid waste.

Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide.

Hello folks, I have this old metal casserole stand and one of its handles broke off (images on link). It holds a 9 inch diameter casserole. The metal part is about 3/16 - 1/4 inch diameter. The material is possibly iron, (or maybe steel?) (magnets stick to it).

I would like to repair it, but I am not very knowledgeable of metal work, The goal is that it becomes usable again with the casserole (and food inside!) so I am looking into a sturdy and durable fix. What would be the best way to fix it? epoxy? soldiering? any recommended technique?

Thanks a lot in advance for any information or advice you can share!

Cheers!

I'm interested in modding some old Xbox 360 and PS2 controllers. I see hall effect sticks for sale online but I'm not sure if it's as easy as replacing them and being done with it. I've read that DualSense controllers require calibration or something. Is it a difficult task to mod game controllers? I do have basic soldering skills. Thank you. Also, sorry if this isn't the best community for my question. It seemed the most relevant.

I have a Lenovo ThinkCentre M900 Tiny (10FL) which has been working fine. Recently, I had an HDD failure, and replaced it with an SSD. This time, I decided to go with ZFS (single drive, kinda pointless, but I get scrubbing). Every once in a while, I'm getting errors while scrubbing. It's always 1-2 read or write errors. And it never reappears if I clear the error and run another scrub.

The data isn't important, and it's backed up, so I'm not too worried about it. But, the symptoms make me think that it's an issue of the SATA port inside. Is it possible to replace the SATA port inside this device? I wasn't able to find anything like part number etc. online and it looks like I need to replace the whole board. Any help is appreciated.

I have two previous phones with cracked screens but are otherwise functioning devices. I was thinking about fixing them and giving one to a relative and use the other for its camera. I've noticed that many aftermarket screens that you find on eBay and Amazon on much cheaper than OEM suppliers like iFixit. Sure, there are "for parts" listings on eBay but rarely do they have a good screen. So those (somewhat) cheap aftermarket screens seem like a good deal. Any advice? Thanks in advance.

So my Siemens Fridge has been acting weird lately. The freezer under the fridge has randomly started to cool to -30°C. The temperature is set to -18°C and the freezer actually gets back to that after reaching -30 for a while and then warming back up again. It sounds like the compressor is working almost the entire day and the temperature at the top seems to almost always display the correct temperature. Ive yet to check wether it actually reaches -30, but my vegetables in the fridge have started to freeze 🙃 Ive noticed that manually rebooting the fridge helps to get it started and I plan on doing it automated until I can fix it myself. Siemens wants 120€ just for a technician to come look the the problem and because I am a cheap college student, I'd really like to fix it myself. Is there any steps I can take to further locate the problem or should I let a technician come look at my fridge?

Its a Siemens KG25FA40/01 fridge and freezer.

Thanks in advance :)

I have a Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra that I'm considering for a midframe replacement. Is a heatless display opener safe to use to separate the display panel from the frame? I've opened a fair few iPhones before but I've only ever done midframe + display replacements for androids. This is my personal device so I'm just trying to save money. I feel like I'll probably end up taking a loss if I try to sell the panel and frame, as I'd rather not replace those with aftermarket parts, so I'd just like to ditch the current frame itself.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.dbzer0.com/post/46981383

While iFixit's iOpener is a good tool and it was what I used replace the screen on my Pixel 7 Pro but I think a heat plate is a better option for any future project. I have two older phones that I want to fix up but this time I want to do things a little more 'professional.' There's a heat plate that Hugh Jeffreys uses (example here) but I haven't been able to find that exact one or even a similar product. During my search for a heat plate, I saw recommendations for a heat mat called CPB. While it looks like a good tool, it gives off the impression of a hobbyist project rather than a professional job. I will consider, though, if I can't find any good heat plates. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45JhacvmXV8

In this video we learn how to recycle cardboard into durable, waterproof projects that can be built nearly for free!

Wheat paste based glue, UV protection, and non biodegradable alternative demonstrated.

Still planning on using cardboard molded stuff in my present projects, so this recent upload is very apropos. As a former pro automotive painter, I could easily use several finishing techniques to make far better surfaces than this video, if I was not so physically limited. The cardboard clay is begging to become heavier body filler, and a newspaper pulp would likely make a finishing surface.

In order to make milking the cow easier, I built this head stanchion. The diagonal board slides up into place and when it's vertical, there is a 1-in hole drilled through all three boards. The front and back sandwich boards are 2x6s as is the diagonal sliding board. I had planned on sliding the board into place and then inserting a bolt through all three holes to lock it in place. She's too fast for me, and backs her head out knocking the board out of place before I can get the bolt through. I tried looking for spring-loaded plunger latches, but none of them are long enough or thick enough. I'm not married to the idea of using some sort of spring-loaded mechanism, but I will certainly entertain. Any idea that might make this easier. I'm not married to the idea of using some sort of spring-loaded mechanism, but I will certainly entertain any idea that might make this easier.

Any ideas on how I can accomplish this? Thank you in advance

hi there. my partner recently bought a ninja air fryer secondhand that unfortunately has a layer of rust inside the cook pot and on the removable grill we couldn’t see in the pictures. any suggestions on what to use to clean it up? is it even safe to prepare food in?

if it’s relevant it’s one of the “single basket” models. hope this is ok to post, thanks all

Problem

The laptop's keyboard works properly when the computer on first boots up, but if the computer enters any kind of low power state (i.e. goes to sleep, restarts, or shuts down) while still having a charged battery/power source plugged in then the keyboard stops working (even in the BIOS), except the backlight works and the brightness/accessory keys work. This problem persists in both windows and linux distros. On NixOS, the booting sequence messages a couple ACPI BIOS errors before starting and occasionally the kernel sends usb errors (error -71) which then crashes the desktop environment. When using 'showkey', some keys send very weird key presses.

What I've Tried

• multiple Operating Systems
• updating the BIOS, then flashing it back
• unplugging the keyboard from the motherboard, then replugging it

Looking for research ideas to add an exhaust fan in my bathroom. The room is small. Behind the door is the toilet, then a small sink cupboard, then a tub/shower with a window that opens by sliding upwards.

I don't think there's any electricity past the sink. Walls are lath and plaster.

And I'm not super skilled, but also not completely inept.

Are there any minimally invasive approaches for me to look into, or is this a full on contractor situation?

Thanks for any ideas.

Hello everyone! I need some help.

While I was playing a game on my Xbox, my favorite FightPad broke. (See pictures for more details.) I would like to know if any of you know if and where I can find a replacement directional button for it. Or alternatively, if someone already made a 3D model of said button I could print.

In advance, thanks!

The W and R keys don't work on my ASUS vivobook flip 14 and I would like to fix them so I can give the laptop to a friend. The reason they stopped working is because I spilled water on them a long time ago. Other than that, the laptop works perfectly fine.

I saw some teardown videos for an entire keyboard replacement for it, but it looks wayyyyyy too complicated and easy to mess up. I have expierence replacing stuff like batteries and SSDs in computers.

Is there a way to replace/fix those two keys without taking out the entire motherboard?

I have a few devices that I can get into but haven't been able to find out which chip does what. Any tips?

So I had a taillight bulb go out on me this week, and changing that bulb was simple enough, but also not particularly obvious. Had to look it up and could only find a overly long winded youtube video on it. In the interest of saving some one else the headache of scrubbing through a 20 min video to get answer that could have been explained in 2 minute short, I figured I would write it out.

Tools and Parts list

• Flat head screwdriver
• 8mm deepwell socket or wrench (A standard socket might work, but a baby socket won't. Long bolts.)
• Replacement bulb
  • The red brake and taillight bulb is a white 7443 bulb. )
  • The turn signal bulb is an amber 7440A
  • The reverse light is a 921

Instructions:

1.) Open the trunk. (Yes, I'm a smart ass :-D )
2.) On the rear (driver's perspective) corner of the trunk on the side with the blown bulb, look for a removable plastic rivet. Place under the center part of the rivet, a flathead screwdriver and lever the center part up, then pull the rivet out. If you try to remove the rivet before poping the center part up you will break the rivet.
3.) Pull the carpet to the side to reveal where the back of the tail light assembly should be. You will find 2 long bolts secured with 8mm nuts.
4.) Remove the 8mm nuts.
5.) Applying rearward pressure to the exposed bolts and the outside of the assembly, remove the assembly. It slides off to the rear, not the side. This will take a bit for force, but not much. Be careful not to damage the tail light assembly or damage the wiring harness. The wiring harness has roughly 8 inches of play.
6.) You now have access to the bulb holders for the tail/brake light, turn signal, and reverse light. The bulb holders twist loose and it shouldn't take much force. The bulbs themselves are a friction fit into the bulb holders.
7.) Reverse these steps to reassemble.