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cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/43120463

TLDR (I’m very long-winded): this YT video took measurements of three different audio cables, including a 200€ one, and found differences where there should be none. My physics knowledge (and general consensus among the scientific community) says the measurements of the different cables should be identical or near-identical — or I am, at least, under that impression. My own measurements, because the channel does provide the files, confirm that the expensive 200€ cable does measure differently from the others. But surely something else must be causing this? Please help me find out what that is, Lemmy!

Below, I go into a little more detail and context, and I go through what I have tried, etc.; I tried splitting everything up into chunks to make it easier to read, but I was never good at being succinct. Sorry about that 😬 :P

Context: What Am I Talking About?

Firstly, I should clarify that this isn’t relevant to most people, only really physics and audio-technology nerds. But I’m desperate. This question has been tormenting me for days...

I should provide some context. For some reason, YouTube gave me a rather odd video suggestion. I am very interested in audio technology, mixing, and mastering, but I’m not a snake-oil audiophile type. I guess you could call me a lover-of-audio, e.g., audiophile, but I don’t attach myself to that community. So you can imagine my confusion when this video was suggested to me on YouTube.

For anyone unwilling to click on an ambiguous YT link like that, here is a brief description: audiophile guy (who believes that cables affect sound) compares three cables, two of which are "cheap" (e.g., approx. 50€) and one of which is expensive (like 200€ — for a cable). His conclusion is ultimately (yes, I watched that far) that they don’t really affect sound, because they’re just interconnects (so RCA cables), and not speaker or power cables. But he actually records each cable and provides those music files — which means I can compare them as well...

By "records each cable," I mean that he used each cable to connect a CD-player to a pre-amp (for some reason) and then an analogue-to-digital convert (ADC) into his computer, where he can record the output; this way he gets just the supposed difference the cables make. I realize that the CD-player might have some inconsistencies, since CDs are a moving medium, but jitter compensation and stuff like that is very advanced these days, so this is getting pretty close to an accurate measurement of the cables, I think (correct me if I’m wrong!).

In the video, this guys claims that the measurements show a difference between the cables. This debate around cables is something I thought was quite contested, so I naturally decided to download the tracks (which he provides in the description) and compare them myself. Here’s what happened.

My Own Testing: They Don’t Null

So I downloaded his recordings, phase-aligned (which they weren’t already) everything and normalized to peak (which, again, was necessary, and creates the lowest delta compared to LUFS, etc.), and then null-tested. That means I inverted the phase of one, played two of the files at the same time, and thus got the delta between them.

The Mogami and Belden cables (the cheap ones) are nearly identical; there is a slight difference in the null-test, but it is statistically small enough, that I attribute it to measurement inconsistency (e.g., CD-player, DAC, or ADC performance, but also maybe natural conditions, etc.). I especially suspect — given that most differences occur at higher frequencies but aren’t really audible when listening — a jitter related issue, causing the timing to be just a little off, thus creating a delta in the higher frequencies. This could be due to the CD-player, but I have no idea.

...the Neotech (the expensive one), however, is significantly different.


Firstly, he provides the file for the Neotech cable with a significant phase delay compared to the others, of about 50 ms, and it is also about 0.02 db louder than the others. This alone makes it sound better, but when I correct this volume and phase difference — it still sounds better, and the null-test confirms that it is still quite different (we're talking differences up to -40 db here, which should definitely be audible).

It turns out, the volume difference actually changes throughout the song; meaning that in some places the difference is 0.01 db, and in others 0.03 db. But I can correct for that! I don’t know why it happens (someone smarter than me, please explain), but I can correct for it... And yet, the null test still shows a clear difference (especially when the singer makes s-sounds, i.e., sibilance).

Please Help Me

What is going on? My physics knowledge tells me this should be impossible. I can only imagine that for some reason the Neotech is more conductive, or something like that, and therefore recreates the harsh and very fast dynamics of sibilance more accurately. But the difference in conductivity should not be enough to cause that... I really am confused. Someone with more expertise please explain this!

For context, I cannot blind test ABX the Neotech. This is very subtle stuff here. But the null test shows differences as high as -45 db when the singer does those s-sounds and everything has been normalized. So clearly something is happening (and again, this is phase aligned and normalized and everything). So what could it possibly be?


Lemmy, please show me what I have missed! Show me the obvious error I or the video creator made. Sorry to make such a long post on c/asklemmy, but I don’t know where else to ask.

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submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by to c/audiophile@lemmy.ml
 
 

Edit: Read this first. The solution was to not try to do everything online and go to a local music/record/vintage audio equipment shop and chat with the folks there. They were super nice, showed me the gear they recommended, and now I've got a nice sounding vintage setup that may not be audiophile worthy but is super awesome to me.

Hi there all, beginner audiophile here. Trying to build out my first turntable setup.

I decided on a Fluance RT82 and Douk X1 for a preamp. Now, when selecting speakers, I decided I'd just buy a second pair of the studio monitors I was using on my computer, Kali LP-6.

Now I'm a bit confused on the connections. The RT82 comes with an RCA cable and ground cable I'll connect to the Douk preamp, so that is covered. But the preamp has 4 speaker outputs that are binding posts. There is only a single RCA input on each monitor, so I'm not sure how to connect the preamp to the monitors.

I did see someone online say "why would you connect a preamp to LP-6? They already have amplifiers in them" But I also saw another person who had a TT setup with the LP-6es, which included a pre amp.

Any advice would be appreciated!! Or reading materials. The douk manual isn't much help.

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Hi there!

I'm looking to replace my Edifier R1800BT with some higher end alternative.

What would you recommend?

Thanks!

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I use my PC for gaming, streaming, and music production. Currently I just use a Scarlet 2i2 Gen 3 with powered PreSonus Eris E4.5 speakers, which is fine but I have an idealised audio setup I'd like to build which I'm struggling to put together without compromising on some aspect. The audio world is such a rabbit hole of snake-oil and bullshit it is hard to find genuinely good products I can trust to be what they claim, and not just overpriced distractions. I'm no audio expert (which is probably obvious) but I think what I'm trying to achieve is interesting enough to see what people recommend, and help me decide if my goal is unrealistic.

Here are my requirements and what I'm trying to achieve.

  1. Volume controlled entirely from Windows. No external volume knobs unless they can be bypassed/overridden in software.

  2. Audio Interface for my Mic and guitar.

    So at least 2 XLR inputs and 1 TRS (Combo ports are also fine).

    Include 48v Phantom Power for my Dynamic mics (RØDE PodMic and RØDE M3)

    Might need a pre-amp to boost gain on the Dynamic mic's

  3. A Good USB DAC

  4. A Good AMP for passive speakers, with a port for my wired headphones.

  5. Passive Stereo speakers

  6. Sound quality should be natural and true to life as possible. I don't want any silly audio enhancements, like base boosts or clear voice, but a good EQ control would be OK.

  7. I'd like separate units for DAC/AMP/Mic Interface but I'd be happy with good combo devices.

Here is a diagram of what I'm hoping for. https://i.imgur.com/shzA8bn.png

I welcome your thoughts and pointers. Thx.

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submitted 2 years ago by to c/audiophile@lemmy.ml
 
 

I would appreciate any help, thanks.

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Will this be the end of Qobuz?

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Just discovered this app. I love that it allows me to default to LDAC 16/44/quality settings without having to manually fiddle with developer options every time I connect headphones, earbuds, and speakers. I can also toggle between LDAC 16/44/quality and LDAC/16/44/adaptive settings with one click through saved profiles. Paid $4.13 for the premium app. Well worth it for audiophiles who use LDAC.

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Sharp CP-HP500 (lemmy.ml)
submitted 2 years ago by to c/audiophile@lemmy.ml
 
 

About a year ago I aquired a pair of these speakers and a diy sub for free. According to a few searches, they are supposed to be paired with a cd receiver. Does the cd receiver matter if I already have a home theater receiver? Are these any good for music and home theater?

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I have a hard limit of $100 I can spend on quality headphones. I'm aware it'll never be as good at the wallet killers but surely it'd be better than my Bluetooth earbuds.

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TL;DR How can I equalize my car speakers using an equalizer app like ViPER4Android on my phone?


I just equalized my headphones on my phone using ViPER4Android's convolver feature and a headphone-specific .wav file I got from AutoEq, and it sounds great. Unfortunately, AutoEQ only seems to support a limited range of sound devices, which does not include car sound systems.

I'm not an audiophile, but even I can tell that my car's system's frequency response is terrible, specifically in the low end, where there are specific frequencies that resonate through the car (especially noticeable when the bass frequency changes in a song).

As far as I know, AutoEq's files are made by playing something over the speakers, recording it with a high quality microphone and correcting it to match some pre-determined frequency response curve called an equalizer target. I was wondering if there's a way to replicate this process using my phone's microphone (I'm not after near-perfect sound quality here, just something that sounds reasonable), and if that would be the best way of going about this.